The Rickshaw Diaries

Updates and musings from my trip to Africa ...and formerly a documentation/narrative of my trip to India and South East Asia (Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia and Thailand) with three friends and an open mind.

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Going...Going...Saigon! (and final impressions of Cambodia)

Hello from Ho Chi Minh City, formerly 'Saigon'. I'm happy to report Dave and I are officially millionaires!...in Vietnamese currency of course (also known as the 'dong' - insert joke here). We enjoy a very comfortable exchange rate of US$1=VHD16000, meaning we are litterally carrying millions of dongs in our money belts. How sweet it is. Food is amazing in HCMC, and dirt cheap. The only downside so far has been the total lack of travellers of our age.
I'm still having a hard time getting used to the idea that this is a communist state. When we crossed the border there was a GIANT statue of a hammer and sickle (in stark grey stone of couse) to greet us, and the image of Ho Chi Minh (Vietnam's communist liberator) abounds all over the city. But it'll be right beside a huge neon 'Samsung' sign or obscurred by the flashy Mercedes driving by in front of it. Obviously Vietnam is not communist in the way the USSR was, but I always had a harsher picture of communism in mind. For me the craziest part is seeing things from a whole new perspective. The Vietnamese portray the American army from the war as an evil and barbaric invading force. I've never had the chance to see things from the other side, growing up in North America we only hear about the cruelties commited by the Vietnamese liberation army (NOTE: Canada never sent troops to partake in this war). The tour guides, videos, pamphlets etc. at the War Remnants Museum of Ho Chi Minh City (formerly the "Museum of American Atrocities") and the Viet Cong tunnel network are obviously not fans of America. For us it serves to drive home the point that war is really really bad, and people on both sides are very negatively affected.
Speaking of the tunnel network, it is insane. Quick history lesson: during the Vietnam war (1965-75) the native guerrilla army used a series of tunnels to store their weapons and supplies and move on American positions while hidden. They actually lived in these tunnels, and let me tell you that is crazy!!! Dave and I ventured in through 20m of the sub-terrainian land and that was more than enough. We were drenched in sweat, being stooped over and scrambling around in the dark was very uncomfortable. We couldn't imagine being down there longer than 10 minutes, let alone weeks at a time. Their techniques for keeping entrances, bunkers, even chimneys hidden were ingenious. We also got to see some of the booby traps set up by the Viet Cong to apprehend their enemies (yikes).

Unfortunately we had to give the Caodist temple a miss (its a religious sect that worships, among others, Victor Hugo. Apparently their would-be deities visit them in seances) but the time saved should be well worth it from what we hear about our next stop. Dalat is a small town in the mountains of southern Vietnam surrounded by many impressive waterfalls and forests. We hear its possible to trek up the mountains and repel down the falls.

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CAMBODIA was simply incredible. One day youre climbing through the ruins of one of the soaring accomplishments of mankind's history, and the next youre witnessing the remnants of the depths of the darkest human condition. Khmers are wonderful (though very industrious and persistant in trying to get money out of you) and I am in awe of the resiliancy of the Cambodian people. Dave and I agree that chilling in Phnom Penh was great, we were very sad to leave. We made sure to pay a visit to what is perhaps Asia's most (in)famous night club - The Heart of Darkness - as well as one of the classiest joints I've ever seen (it consisted of a huge yacht docked at the river side). Strangely enough those places provided a parallel to Cambodia itself, decadent opulence side by side with a darker, seamier side of life. All I can say about this country is you HAVE to see Angkor Wat at some point in your life, and paying a visit to the Killing Fields is a sobering reminder of the importance of acceptance and harmony in the world. Cambodia attacks your senses and emotions, providing a wealth of perspective and a hell of a good time.
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You'll be happy to know that this should be our last blog entry of any serious length as we're starting off on what promises to be a whirlwind tour of Vietnam and Laos that probably won't allow for much internet time. There are a lot of stops and plenty to see, but not to worry we will be sure to keep you up to date if not completely immersed in our goings on.

All the best...

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