The Rickshaw Diaries

Updates and musings from my trip to Africa ...and formerly a documentation/narrative of my trip to India and South East Asia (Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia and Thailand) with three friends and an open mind.

Sunday, August 06, 2006

Thai Dye

Well, I’ve somehow managed to fend off the touts, traffic, heat, dirt, bugs, noise and Dave’s countless advances, and here I am. All I can say is South East Asia is a trip! It’s turned my world upside down and I hope I’m not coming down anytime soon. (Better hit the washroom now, this is going to be a lengthy entry.)

Following our short sojourn to beautiful Laos Dave and I boarded a quick flight back to Bangkok, where it all began. We felt like real travel vets and spotting rookies in the hub of South East Asian travel was like shooting fish in a barrel. Upon arrival we made our way to Khao San Road for a joyous reunion with our original travel mates Derek and Ben. We got many a puzzled stare for our slightly over the top celebrations from passers-bye but we were too excited to care. We set up base camp and headed out for some much needed pad thai and a raucous start to our soiree. The ubiquitous 7-11 (seriously there are about three every block in Bangkok) provided us with the necessary supplies to concoct a specialty of the region, ‘buckets’. This involves voluminous amounts of hard alcohol and mixer consumed from – you guessed it – buckets. Unfortunately Dave was the first victim claimed that night and we were sadly forced to drop the dead weight and head out. I won’t go into details about the evening that followed (mainly because my memory is rather cloudy) but suffice it to say it was a sweet night with the boys. Despite the random frisking by over-zealous cops who stole my (second) pad thai I had a terrific time.

The next night we met up with some friends Dave and I made along the way in Vietnam and hit the town again (this time with Lotimer’s much appreciated company) for another evening for the books. The following day I had to bid adieu to Derek, which was surprisingly hard. As he embarks on his quest through med school and I head out west, I won’t be seeing Rock as often as back in Kingston (where he was my neighbor) but I’m not worried about staying close friends, and Bangkok-esque reunions are just a short flight away.
Thanks for the great times Baba Ganouj, I love you (ya you big guy).
That evening Ben and Dave took the overnight bus north to Chang Mai leaving me to head south to Ko Samet for a brief last taste of the beach. I traveled with a friend to the tiny island which had surprisingly beautiful beaches despite being heavily touristed. It was a shame that Dave and I didn’t have a chance (due to a rescheduling of our flights back to India) to head further south to the legendary islands and beaches of peninsular Thailand, but at least I now have a big reason to come back some day. Though rainy, Ko Samet was lots of fun. When I got back to Bangkok I had no idea what was in store for me. I crashed with my buddy Sank, who had booked the penthouse (the aptly named “Emperor Suite”) of the best hotel in Bangkok for eleven days. He showed me how to live the high life and then some, wining and dining in grand style at the city’s finest establishments. Those two days were quite the contrast to the dismal confines of some of the hostels I’ve graced along my route, for which I offer my sincere thanks to Mr. Patel. I met up with Dave and Ben once they arrived from Chang Mai on Thursday morning, with all three of us heading back to India the next day. We swapped stories about the past few days, and I was jealous of their awesome time, though it was very different from mine. We spent our final day in South East Asia going on a shopping spree and enjoying some of our favorite local treats. It occurred to me that I’ve spent some 11 days in Thailand but seen only two places, which is good and bad. On the plus side I’ve got to know Bangkok quite well, but unfortunately I haven’t had a chance to see more of this stunning land. I relish the idea of remedying that situation at the first possible opportunity, and look back at the places I did see with fond memories.

I currently find myself in Delhi, India, catching up with my extended family and spending time with my grandparents before I head back to Canada for ‘real life’ on the 15th of August. I’m also enjoying my last few days with Dave who will depart for North India shortly. We visited the Taj Mahal today, I would refer you to the famous quote by the author Tagore as these are surely the only words that can do the magnificent monument justice (http://www.tajmahalagra.com/story-of-taj-mahal-agra.html). This time is also providing me with a great chance to reflect on the trip, here are some thoughts I’ve manage to collect thus far:

I really feel the extent to which a person enjoys backpacking has a lot to do with the people they encounter along the way. In this respect (along with pretty much everything else on the trip) Dave and I have been very fortunate. Don’t get me wrong, we’ve met some real weirdoes. But for the most part no matter where they’re from or what age they are our fellow travelers have been great. Those I got a chance to get to know have taught me a lot. To all the people I met along the way, from the bottom of my heart, thanks for adding to my experience and being great fun. A special mention to my lovely fellow-Montrealer, Esther; merci pour tous, t’es une personne vraiment inspirante.
And the main cast in order of appearance: Katie, Alice, Jhimmy and Anders, the Aussies (group 1), Imran, Diana, the Aussies (group 2…Kat, Minh, Glen, you lot are bloody brilliant!), Romain, Arnault, Hanna and Johanna, Heather, Sank (aka dad) and the one and only Kato Kailin. All the best and I hope to run into you again soon, if you ever find yourself in beautiful Canada you have a place to stay.

To Thailand – specifically Bangkok – you annoyed the hell out of me but somehow I love you for it. To Cambodia, you are truly an inspiring place filled with the most resilient and beautiful people (Angkor Wat ain’t too shabby either). To Vietnam, your ever-changing yet always stunning backdrop set the stage for some of the most reflective as well as enjoyable times I’ve ever enjoyed. To Laos, I wish I got to know you better, but from what I’ve seen I’m sure you’ll be a sight for sore eyes.

To my traveling companion and dear friend Dave, we did it buddy! It’s been a wild ride, I’ve seen you day in and day out for the past 13 weeks, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. Aside from all your other winning characteristics, your patience, openness and attitude have been real lessons for me, I’ve learnt a lot in your company. I feel very privileged to have such a great guy as such a great friend. I’ll miss you a lot when I’m out west man, but I couldn’t imagine a better partner to share this amazing experience with.

Thanks for coming with me, and above all, thanks for slowing me down and teaching me to enjoy the moment.

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No need to change the favorites tab on your browser just yet folks, this is not quite the end of The Rickshaw Diaries, though it will be my last narrative update on the adventures I enjoyed in South East Asia. I intend to put up a concluding post upon my return to Canada with my final thoughts and impressions from home. I know there will be many new things I notice and appreciate when I get back. Also keep an eye out for more pics. But as of now I don’t think words can describe just how incredible this experience has been. I can honestly say it has changed my life and the way I look at the world around me. If I can keep all the positives from the last 7 weeks I know I will be a better and happier person. I can’t wait to share my stories with everyone and hear about your summers.

and finally…

GO TRAVELLING if you ever get the chance, pick up that bag, kiss responsibility goodbye (if only temporarily) and hit the road. You won’t look back and you’ll love yourself for doing it.

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Dave signs off....

Hello All,
It has been a long time since I have last taken the time to write about the places we have been seeing and the people we have been meeting, but I guess that is what happens when you are truly enjoying the moment. This will be the last post I write from my travels so I would like to thank you all for putting up with my ranting. It feels great to share my experiences and get these thoughts down in writing. Once again, thanks for listening.

I am writing you from Chang Mai in the North of Thai Land. It is a beautiful city with great people in it, and I am very happy to have left Bangkok in order to see this 'real' Thai city. I have traveled this way via Bangkok which we arrived in about 6 days ago from Laos. I have left Amar in Bangkok and am travelling for a few days with good old BennyT. We were fortunate enough to meet up with him and Derek while in Bangkok and Ben and I decided it would be a good idea to see what the north had to offer. Unfortunately our good friend Derek had to head back to Canada to prepare for his schooling in Toronto. He will be missed and we wish him good luck with his preparation. Wish I could have had more time to chill with you Rock, but who knows what the future holds.

Laos was a very interesting country with very interesting people in it. Personally, I found Vang Vieng difficult to enjoy as the masses found themselves caught up in a lounge fest that consisted of partaking in 'the other tobacco' while watching the same 10 episodes of friends on large TV screens located in the numerous lounge cafes. I understand that relaxing is important but to waste such valuable time in such a mysterious country is hard for me to fathom. Luang Prabang was the highlight of Laos for me. The traditional 'on foot city explore' that Amar and myself enjoy each time we get into a new city was educational and exciting. We found ourselves in the midst of a beautiful ancient temple, atop a Buddhist monumental mountain overlooking both the city and the powerful Mekong river, and enjoying the riverside French cuisine. It was a beautiful place, but as the time flies by, we are forced to move on.

Our arrival in Bangkok was highly anticipated as we knew we would be running into our great friends Ben and Derek. It was a ecstatic reunion and the excitement in sharing stories and pictures over the day can be likened to that of a kid in a candy shop. The next day was spend seeing the beautiful Bangkok palace (round two for myself after seeing it earlier with Amar) and visiting the market with Derek and Ben. It was great to further catch up and allow some of the excitement to fade in order to allow a more rational being to immerge and discuss some of the more insightful experiences we each encountered on our journeys. The night was also amazing as we get in touch with a friend from earlier travels who showed us the real Bangkok nightclubs. It was great to let loose a little and share in a real party atmosphere for the first time in a long while.
Ben and I spend the day here in Chang Mai exploring the city, especially the local markets. This city is known for these markets and it is all I can do to resist the local trinkets and fake western clothing. We also spend a day learning to cook Thai food today which was a blast and should come in real use upon return to Canada. All I need now is a Wok, a shovel like spatula, and a Thai market at my disposal.
Although it is unrealistic and probably stupid to try, I want to somehow rap up what this leg of the trip has meant to me thus far. So here goes...

This experience has been amazing really. How can you not appreciate constant inspiration, education and beauty. You can never really imagine what this whole experience is like and when you actually do get a chance to get into it, it becomes amazing in a totally unplanned way. I am spending so much time thinking about serious issues in my life which although can be quite stressful, feels really good. Serious issues need serious thought. Also, seeing the world and the people in it for what they really are is priceless, and its impact will influence my own decisions and actions for the rest of my life. There is so much that I thought I understood, or that I believed to which I now understand I know very little of. The friendships that I have made are invaluable in terms of their genuine insight into another completely different person's life from a completely different place. The beauty and enjoyment in truly sharing a moment, whether it be profound thought or pure childlike fun is also invaluable. I have really enjoyed learning to further appreciate just how great such simple moments can be. I have also made a decision that when I head back to India in a few days to travel the north alone for three weeks that I will cut myself off from all communication (phone, internet, even meeting other people). I feel the need to find complete solitude and a total lack of any tie to anything. I am hoping to enjoy the beautiful Himalayan scenery, write music and think. It should be a great experience although possibly lonely. I just hope I don't return to Canada too lost to get reacquainted with the country. Although, I am not really that worried, Canada is one of the best places on Earth, I am sure of it.
I would also like to thank my traveling partner Amar for sharing is such a great experience. His attitude, friendship, planning and character made the trip a better experience then I could have imagined. You are the man Beej.

I guess that is it for me, I am heading back to Canada on the 25th of August to enjoy the last few weeks of summer on Canadian soil. Thanks again for listening and I really look forward to sharing some of my stories when ever our paths may cross again. Take care and enjoy the moments as they come, there is really nothing like appreciating what we have. As one of my idols would say...

"Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery; None but ourselves can free our minds."

-Bob Marley

Peace,

Dave