Bangkok part deux

"You know, Richard, one of these days I'm going to find one of those Lonely Planet writers and I'm going to ask him, what's so fucking lonely about the Khao San Road?"

-Jed, The Beach

De-Laos-ing

First of all I should note that the 's' in 'Laos' is silent, hence nullifying the pun in the title, but I figure I get a writer's allowance (for lack of a better term).

The day after our arrival in Vientiane we were off to Vang Vieng (aka hippie heaven) a very, very sleepy little town nestled on a lazy river under the watchful eye of gorgeous karst peaks. Aside from the scenery and some adventure sport options, the major appeal of Vang Vieng is strictly, shall we say, bohemian. The many restaurants along the only real street in the town play Friends re-runs on continuous loop as the dazed and confused patrons fill their munchie quotas voraciously.
We did, however, enjoy Vang Vieng's most famous attraction, the lazy river 'cruise'. This involves sticking yourself into a rubber tube and having the river current guide you to the many makeshift bars lining the route back to town. Though rather dangerous to be testing a briskly moving body of water while inebriated this is a huge tourist draw (go figure). The atmosphere at the bars was great, they had swings and trapezes from which you could catapult yourself into the water. All in all a good time, but bigger and better things called and so we were off to Luang Prabang.

I really think there is only one appropriate word to describe unique Luang Prabang, the small former French-colonial capital; stunning. Practically the whole area is a UNESCO world heritage site so it's immaculately preserved and just beautiful. Every shop, restaurant etc. looks like a chique boutique with a classic South East Asian colonial facade. The surrounding mountains with the breath-taking whisps of cloud add to the amazing aura of this place. Luang Prabang is the quaint 19th century town of romantic lore. While here we met some great people (a whole bunch from Montreal) and had a great mini-trek to a ridiculous waterfall. Pictures are the only way to fully appreciate the sights, but those will have to wait as we depart to Bangkok in about 15 minutes.

Numerous people who had visited Laos - both friends from back home and fellow travellers in other countries - has said that one can easily 'lose themselves in Laos'. Based on my initial impression I didn't understand this. The country is very beautiful, the cities well-organized and clean (maybe not so true for Vang Vieng) and the people are just wonderful. Still, a week seemed more than adequate to me - until we reached Luang Prabang. It seems that is the beauty of Laos, it has so much to offer of such variety that it takes careful inspection to determine what it for you.

I now realize my jaunt in Laos has been too short for me to develop a full appreciation for the subtelties that make this place so appealing to those in search of something. It would take a little more time and a little more patience, but I too am now convinced that its easy to get lost in this awesome country.

postscript...
I wish I had more time to explain how great the Laosians are. Everyone will greet you with a huge smile and a warm welcoming 'hello', be it on the street, in a guesthouse or in a small village. They are also some of the most gentle and honest of the South East Asians we have encountered thus far. This is one of the world's poorest nations but it must have some of the happiest people I've ever met.

ALSO apologies for any spelling/grammar errors, no time to check this over...

Fortunate Son

As must be evident by the lack of a blog post in the past couple of weeks, Dave and I had a BLAST in Vietnam. Following our trek we made our way from Dalat to the beach town of Nha Trang via a treacherous mountain bus ride with an uncanny resemblance to Derek and Ben's Himalayan bus ride (minus drunken bus driver, but including four or five very very sick Vietnamese travellers).

Nha Trang was simply amazing, every day was pretty much perfect. We were extremely fortunate not only with the idyllic weather but also the great company. At our strongest, our crew totalled 11 diverse individuals (including three awesome Aussies, one Vietnamese, two Swedes, two French guys and of course fellow Montrealer Esther). Everyone got along real well and knew how to party like it was Uncle Ho's sweet 16. In addition, they were all really cool and interesting, making for some great conversation. I'd like to thank each one of them for making my beach stint the highlight of Vietnam!
While there I went on my first ever dive (and definitely not last, I absolutely loved it, its like a whole new planet) and of course we hit the 'booze cruise' with our posse. Basically a hunk-o-junk boat takes you around to a few of the beautiful islands surrounding Nha Trang in the South China Sea, stopping a few times along the way for swimming, snorkeling and of course some floating-bar fun complete with complimentary homemade wine (don't worry, we were in rubber tubes when drinking, a foolproof safety device). They even provided live music, which was possibly the most brutal ear punishment ever devised. The 'tour guide' was quite a character, his job consisted of getting absolutely hammered and being the life of the party for a bunch of tourists, day in and day out. Not a bad gig, till the drowning and/or liver problems set in.

















Following Nha Trang we spent three and a half days (instead of the originally planned 1) in historic Hoi An. The highlight of this leg was undoubtedly the motorbikes, we rented some four strokes and tore up the roads of that one horse town in a fashion that would make Hell's Angels proud. All this despite the fact our hogs topped out at 60kph.
Hoi An is a very well preserved city that offers a glimpse into life in a hub of the Renaissance spice trading route. The accessible history provided an enlightening backdrop to its gorgeous beach, where I spent the majority of my time. The seafood was very fresh - caught and cooked right in front of your eyes - and made for a great meal following a long day of motorbike and wave riding.



After bidding adieu to Esther and the Australians (Dave cried like a baby) we boarded a 20 hour bus to our last destination in The Socialist Republic of Vietnam, the capital; Hanoi. We based our selves in the quaint Old Quarter and scored a sweet room (except for the fact that the daily meat market was found directly outside our balcony each morning...mmm-mmm!). The next morning we were off to Halong Bay. I cannot do justice to this place without showing you pictures, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halong_Bay. It was definitely breath taking, but way over-touristed. Our boat was one of the 40 or so that plied the exact same route and didnt even take us out of sight of Halong City despite the 3000 islands found in the giant bay. The boats even docked in the same cove, creating a floating city atmosphere. The fact that the landscape was as moving as it was despite the overcrowding really proves how special it is. I suppose being treated like herded cows is the price you pay to see this magnificent place.

After the night on the bay, we headed back to Hanoi for a night. Rather than scramble around town visiting all the played-out tourist spots we decided to live like locals, fighting the insane traffic to hit a Vietnamese institution: Bia Hoi. Its their version of the pub, except that you sit in kiddie chairs in the streets and pay ridiculous prices for surprisingly decent (though undeniably metallic) keg beer. How ridiculous, you ask? Try 5000 dong - 30 cents US - per litre. It was a great way to meet some Hanoi-ites and close out a sweet three weeks in their country. Dave and I agree its sad to go, but we're becoming stronger and stronger believers of leaving on a high so as to capture the best sentiments. I certainly hope to return at some point.

We're now in Vientiane, the capital of Laos. It is very different than we expected, the city is very clean and quite westernized, but we're hoping things will change when we head to the less metropolitan areas. We plan to make our way north to the French colonial town of Luang Prabang from where we fly to Bangkok to catch up with our good friends Derek and Ben. I can't believe its been almost 7 weeks since we last saw them, it will be a great reunion.

As my time in Vietnam has come to a close I've realized that its the small things here that mean the most. Be it listening to the CCR classic while cruising the lush green countryside, or enjoying a Bia Hoi extravaganza in a distinctly authentic old town, Vietnam has made us feel right at home. These past three weeks have been some of the most fun and memorable ever. Vietnam really put me at ease and allowed me to have a great time. I didn't worry about a schedule to follow or monuments to catch, it was about taking it a day at a time and enjoying every moment for what it was. We spent almost three times longer here than in Cambodia but the time just flew by, even though the majority of that time involved sand and sun. This is really the laid-back, care-free escape I was looking for when I came out to South East Asia, not a care in the world but making sure I can find a shady spot to enjoy my steaming bowl of noodles and a sweaty bottle of beer.


**Note: Dave didn't actually cry, but we were both definitely sad to say bye to our travel companions




PICTURES from Dalat:

actual tiger

behind a waterfall

sweet helmet

Absolutely Dalat-ful!!

We are now in Dalat, Vietnam after a stint in Saigon. It was a beautiful city and we were able to get caught up on the history of the Vietnam-American war, and see some of the fighting grounds (including the Vietnamese tunnels). It was difficult to see everything that each side endured, but I think it is really important to realize exactly what happened during that time, especially from another point of view. The Vietnamese perception (as I am sure you can imagine) is quite different then the American view of why and what exactly happened. We caught the World cup Semi's and found our way on foot around the city to round out our time in Saigon.

Dalat is a South Central city in Vietnam located in the mountains of the country. The bus ride was beautiful to get into the city and it is nice to have the cooler temperatures and elevated land. It is a smaller city, but I find much appeal in the lack of tourists and modern buildings; to me it feels a little like Victoria, BC. Our first night was quite enjoyable as we meet three other Canadians in the hotel and headed out for a market visit and a few beers. It was great to get a taste of home and share stories of our travels, we actually plan to meet up with one of them (Ester from Montréal) in our next stop Nha Trang.

The next day was spent on a motorcycle driving through the country-side on what the locals like to call an EZ-Rider tour (the guide was sure to show me his official EZ-Rider License). It was absolutely beautiful and we were able to stop anywhere along the road to take pictures and or reflect. We also stopped at several designated areas such as the beautiful Elephant Water Falls which was the highlight of the journey. We even made our way into the depths of the drop to experience the full power of the falls in a barrage of mist. It was exhilarating to say the least. The rest of the journey involved stops in local farms, temples and hillsides. I was even proposed to by one of the local farm girls working in a rice field, I was forced to decline based on the fact that she could not speak English and I had only met her 2 minutes earlier. We thought we had found the utmost of what Dalat had to offer; we were wrong.

Today we experienced arguably the best day of the trip to date: a 20km trek though the mountains and coffee fields of South central Vietnam. We were picked up early morning at our guest house and headed out on the 30 minute drive down a rickety stone road to the start point. From there we began a decent into a farmers valley (with no road access) to find ourselves immersed in young coffee plants among several other local farmers produce. After crossing what could only be described as a 'treacherous' suspension bridge we wound our way through the fields and forest for another hour. I forgot to mention that Amar and I had lucked out on this journey based on the fact that we were the only two trekkers besides our guide and his trainee. The guide Thung was a very intelligent guy who like us had just finished University. His knowledge of plant growth, local custom and geography was outstanding allowing us to learn quite a lot along the way. After another interesting suspension bridge crossing we began our ascent to one of the two peaks we would eventually climb. It was difficult climbing but the combination of good company, outstanding weather and the prospect of lunch at the top made short work of the journey and we were there before we knew it. The peak was unbelievably beautiful and I could do nothing but feel thankful to be alive as I sat and stared out on the valley below eating my cucumber and tofu sandwich and delectible dragon fruit. A truly memorable moment. After lunch we conquered the much shorter climb to the second peak, this time meandering through shoulder-high long grass, the sun still beaming down on us while the swift breeze kept us cool. After another spectacular panoramic view of the Vietnamese country side we continued our journey to a matriarchal local tribal village. The people, who speak their own language and live mostly independent of the rest of the country, were startled to see us and the sight of cameras sent the small children running for their huts. Another moment for the books. As if this was not enough we found ourselves at the bottom of the violent Tiger Water Falls to end the day. It was a great place to reflect on all that we had seen and accomplished in the past hours, and the combination of sunlight and mist brought about silence and peace. Incase you couldn't tell, I loved the day. One that neither Amar nor I will ever forget.

Our next stop is the beach town of Nha Trang. It is a more touristy place but it will be great to relax and enjoy the beach for a few days. We will send update of the journey there along with the local sights once we arrive. For now, it is off to find some cheap wine and candied ginger to settle the stomach. Miss you all and I will talk to you soon.

Peace,

Dave

PICTURES!!

After a long hard search covering two and a half countries, we've finally managed to locate an internet cafe with a connection fast enough to upload pictures...
so here we go, starting of course in Bangkok and including the infamous bus ride and randoms from Cambodia:
















First night out in Bangkok...Sam and Davey
















Yours truly about to enjoy a local delicacy, deep fried cricket, Bangkok (deelish!)


>>for the following, refer to previous post about bus ride from Bangkok to Siem Reap<<













There goes the diesel tank...
















The replacement vehicle's (first) breakdown
















All aboard (until yet another breakdown)














Sardine can to the rescue!



>>Angkor<<






























My favorite temple, Bayon






















Dave's favorite, Ta Prohm


















Angkor Wat (just before sunset)

















Angkor Wat (sunrise)























Dave on one of the five towers at Angkor Wat

















Last photo-opp at Angkor




>>Phnom Penh<<














Me with some random kid on the street

















Taking a nap Phnom Penh style




We currently find ourselves in Dalat, a cool town in the mountains northeast of Saigon. The scenery is stunning, we went on a motorcycle tour to the surrounding areas (more on that soon). The plan is a trek tomorrow before heading down to the beach in Nha Trang for some much needed relaxation...

enjoy the pics, see you soon

Going...Going...Saigon! (and final impressions of Cambodia)

Hello from Ho Chi Minh City, formerly 'Saigon'. I'm happy to report Dave and I are officially millionaires!...in Vietnamese currency of course (also known as the 'dong' - insert joke here). We enjoy a very comfortable exchange rate of US$1=VHD16000, meaning we are litterally carrying millions of dongs in our money belts. How sweet it is. Food is amazing in HCMC, and dirt cheap. The only downside so far has been the total lack of travellers of our age.
I'm still having a hard time getting used to the idea that this is a communist state. When we crossed the border there was a GIANT statue of a hammer and sickle (in stark grey stone of couse) to greet us, and the image of Ho Chi Minh (Vietnam's communist liberator) abounds all over the city. But it'll be right beside a huge neon 'Samsung' sign or obscurred by the flashy Mercedes driving by in front of it. Obviously Vietnam is not communist in the way the USSR was, but I always had a harsher picture of communism in mind. For me the craziest part is seeing things from a whole new perspective. The Vietnamese portray the American army from the war as an evil and barbaric invading force. I've never had the chance to see things from the other side, growing up in North America we only hear about the cruelties commited by the Vietnamese liberation army (NOTE: Canada never sent troops to partake in this war). The tour guides, videos, pamphlets etc. at the War Remnants Museum of Ho Chi Minh City (formerly the "Museum of American Atrocities") and the Viet Cong tunnel network are obviously not fans of America. For us it serves to drive home the point that war is really really bad, and people on both sides are very negatively affected.
Speaking of the tunnel network, it is insane. Quick history lesson: during the Vietnam war (1965-75) the native guerrilla army used a series of tunnels to store their weapons and supplies and move on American positions while hidden. They actually lived in these tunnels, and let me tell you that is crazy!!! Dave and I ventured in through 20m of the sub-terrainian land and that was more than enough. We were drenched in sweat, being stooped over and scrambling around in the dark was very uncomfortable. We couldn't imagine being down there longer than 10 minutes, let alone weeks at a time. Their techniques for keeping entrances, bunkers, even chimneys hidden were ingenious. We also got to see some of the booby traps set up by the Viet Cong to apprehend their enemies (yikes).

Unfortunately we had to give the Caodist temple a miss (its a religious sect that worships, among others, Victor Hugo. Apparently their would-be deities visit them in seances) but the time saved should be well worth it from what we hear about our next stop. Dalat is a small town in the mountains of southern Vietnam surrounded by many impressive waterfalls and forests. We hear its possible to trek up the mountains and repel down the falls.

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CAMBODIA was simply incredible. One day youre climbing through the ruins of one of the soaring accomplishments of mankind's history, and the next youre witnessing the remnants of the depths of the darkest human condition. Khmers are wonderful (though very industrious and persistant in trying to get money out of you) and I am in awe of the resiliancy of the Cambodian people. Dave and I agree that chilling in Phnom Penh was great, we were very sad to leave. We made sure to pay a visit to what is perhaps Asia's most (in)famous night club - The Heart of Darkness - as well as one of the classiest joints I've ever seen (it consisted of a huge yacht docked at the river side). Strangely enough those places provided a parallel to Cambodia itself, decadent opulence side by side with a darker, seamier side of life. All I can say about this country is you HAVE to see Angkor Wat at some point in your life, and paying a visit to the Killing Fields is a sobering reminder of the importance of acceptance and harmony in the world. Cambodia attacks your senses and emotions, providing a wealth of perspective and a hell of a good time.
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You'll be happy to know that this should be our last blog entry of any serious length as we're starting off on what promises to be a whirlwind tour of Vietnam and Laos that probably won't allow for much internet time. There are a lot of stops and plenty to see, but not to worry we will be sure to keep you up to date if not completely immersed in our goings on.

All the best...